ON THE SHELVES

Most chiantis are a lovely soft red, and the modern versions are full of character and flavour.

This Castello di Querceto is an exception - a nice white. At $110, it is a mite pricey but the novelty of the vernaccia grape makes it worth buying a bottle.

This ancient fruit gives a flowery taste.

Drink the wine well chilled with a salad that has a hint of chilli in the dressing. (Cellarmasters, fax: 2791-6376) The castle in Tuscany that gives the winery its name is a stately, crumbling old place with sturdy battlements. A modern winery has been built in the cellars which during the once-endless civil wars in Italy probably served an alternative purpose as dungeons.

Most production is the classic Chianti grape, sangiovese, with new cabernet sauvignon and other modern fruit such as chardonnay being planted and battling for a place in the world markets.

This 94 vernaccia has a low 11.5 per cent alcohol volume, making it a pleasant pre-lunch aperitif.