Walking into Hong Kong's latest offering of culinary excellence - Vong at the Mandarin Oriental - is to walk into a world of subtle perfection, from the decor and warmth of the staff to the cuisine itself.
For my newly arrived guests, however, fresh from touring parts of rural China, that subtlety had the impact of a sledgehammer, as they delighted in a warm welcome, spotless service and a 270-degree view of Victoria Harbour and Statue Square in Central which had them rubbing their eyes in disbelief at the majesty of Hong Kong's night skyline.
Vong is new in Hong Kong, but not new. A French concept, it combines that cuisine in 'fusion' (as it is called) with subtle Oriental influences - all of which resulted in two successful restaurants in New York and London.
The history is, indeed, a strange pedigree of place and taste which, when you think about it, makes Vong a perfectly natural addition to Hong Kong's melting pot.
Perhaps that is why much is expected of chef de cuisine Enrique Gatchalian, who has five years of experience at New York's Vong. Fine food, after all is said and done, will win the hearts and tastes of Hong Kong diners.
Fine is an apt description for the fusion concept . . . a delicate balancing act between two cuisines so different that to combine their secrets would seem impossible. But combine they do, with delicious results.
Roasted duck breast partners a spicy tamarind sauce and duck egg rolls, succulent sirloin is in a ginger broth with rice noodles and vegetables, quail is fused with Thai spices and served with a crunchy cress salad, and sauteed foie gras is complemented with ginger and mango.
