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Yunnan translates as 'South of the Clouds', a mysterious region of southern China known more for its equable climate and minority tribes than its cuisine.

 However, it has one particular speciality that stands out - quan yang. This is a banquet that serves up the entire body parts of a sheep, hoofs and all.

 But you need not go all the way to Yunnan province to savour such unusual fare. Tucked behind Victoria Park is a small dai pai dong-style cafe, called Quite Good.

 Low barrel stools and glass-topped wooden tables give it a casual air.

 Quite Good serves a wide variety of authentic and adapted Yunnanese recipes, including quan yang.

 'We have changed a few things to suit local tastes,' the chatty waitress admitted.

 'But our chef is from Yunnan - he's in his 50s, so he's an old hand. We do cook quan yang here, but it's best to order it a day in advance.'  The four-year-old restaurant has a steady stream of customers, yet not all demand the whole sheep banquet.

 It is the house speciality, the legendary 'crossing the bridge' soup (guo qiao mi xian ), that is the favourite of local diners.

 The soup comes in three styles. The more expensive contains seafood, the cheapest is vegetarian. All are served as individual and enormous portions.

 The clear broth we chose contained slices of fish and meat, tofu strips, shredded lettuce and pickled vegetables. It is, by tradition, covered in a light layer of oil (usually chicken fat) to keep it piping hot. After it is placed on the table, cold rice vermicelli is added, like an instant noodle hot pot.

 As a hearty winter lunch, one portion is ample. Beware, though, if it comes first it is easy to fill up on this course alone.

 The menu gives a potted history of the origins of the soup's name, an unusual and fun way of introducing regional cuisine. The English menu is divided into 'chapters' which give snippets of romantic legend (as well as the less romantic medical benefits) behind the dishes. It goes to great lengths to translate some of the more bizarre Yunnanese offerings.

 One of these was an item called roll of goat's milk. Sadly, it was unavailable, due to its 'huge popularity' with local and visiting Yunnanese, according to the doleful waitress. Next time.

 The Yunnanese spiced chicken was voted the dish of the day by our table. The tender, lean pieces were served on the bone, and were drenched in a soy and peanut oil marinade that added a unique salty and nutty flavour. The menu offers portions in varying sizes, and a whole chicken will suffice for four.

 Several of the dishes use Yunnanese ham, the delicious 'prosciutto of the south'. Similar to European ham but saltier, it has many uses, such as served cold in thin slices, hot with green vegetables or added as a flavouring to soups.

 The vegetarian steamed tofu dish was light with long, sliced mushrooms, giving it a delightful woody flavour.

 Slightly disappointing was an adapted Mandarin fish recipe (not a Yunnanese speciality), which had been fried and served in a thick sweet-and-sour sauce with diced vegetables and pinenuts.

 Had the fish been larger and the sauce less overwhelming it would have been more enjoyable, although local Cantonese might savour the tangy sauce.

 The herbed chicken balls were not what the name promised. Neither herby nor ball-like, these fatty chicken pieces had been dusted in cornflour then fried, before being drenched in a thick garlicky brown sauce. This was the only real let-down.

 There was not much choice of desserts the evening we visited, but we tried a couple on offer: a warmed rice wine soup with tiny pea-sized glutinous balls or tong yuen, and a sweet fungus similar to the popular snow fungus (mu'er ) which came in a fruity syrup.

 It is unlikely that either will excite gweilo taste buds, although they may appeal more to local palates.

 Throughout the meal the serving staff did their utmost to assist, and at great speed.

 Prices were quite reasonable. As a mid-priced restaurant, Quite Good was exactly that.

 As a purveyor of truly authentic Yunnanese cuisine, it has its limitations.

 A meal for four cost $700, including beer and two desserts.

Quite Good Chinese Restaurant, G/F 100 Electric Avenue, North Point, Tel: 2571-6862, Hours: 11am-11pm 



Happily caught on the hoof in Yunnan