FAMED for its exquisite cuisine, the Locanda Cipriani, situated on the hideaway island of Torcello off the coast of Venice, is one of the world's most exclusive hotels. And the fact that it only has eight rooms ensures it stays that way. The guest list of those who have wined, dined and slept there is pretty impressive - ranging from Paul Newman, Elizabeth Taylor and George Bush, to modern day icons like Charles and Diana, Tom Cruise and Julia Roberts. Even for those with discerning tastes and fat wallets in Hongkong, Italy is a long way to go to catch the famed menu. But that nice Peter Jentes, general manager at the Grand Hyatt, has kindly taken care of that. He has flown in the Locanda Cipriani's chef, Domencio Tonin, to tantalise local taste buds at Grissini between now and March 22. But don't all rush. With only about 26 tables (a few more than at Torcello itself) it might be best to book. Chef Tonin tells me the secret lies in the fact that the hotel is perfectly self-contained - growing its own vegetables, raising its own livestock on the adjacent land and obtaining its seafood from the surrounding sea. Let's hope that doesn't give Mr Jentes any ideas about turning the splendid Japanese garden adjoining the Grand Hyatt into an allotment. Although he would be best advised to leave the sea outside his place well alone.