Wine: Chateau Cheval Blanc Grape: Cabernet Franc (57 per cent), Merlot (41 per cent) Region: Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, France Vintage: 1989, 1981 Chateau Cheval Blanc is one of the eight First Growths of Bordeaux. The others are Chateau Lafite, Chateau Latour, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Ausone, Chateau Petrus and Chateau Haut Brion.
These wines are the pinnacle of excellence and have shown great consistency for well over a century. For example, the 1868 edition of the classic book on Bordeaux by Cocks and Feret declared: 'The wine of Cheval Blanc is very soft, with body and delicacy, but has, above all, its own particular cachet that attracts an ever-increasing demand.' Chateau Cheval Blanc is unusual in using a large proportion of cabernet franc grapes (57 per cent). The cabernet franc's tannic structure blends in beautifully with merlot (41 per cent). Tiny amounts of malbec and cabernet sauvignon add a subtle contribution.
The 1989 Cheval Blanc has a beautiful deep colour which is just starting to show its age with shades of brick at the rim.
The bouquet has good concentration with hints of blackcurrant and prune. The wine is well structured with tannin and flavours of blackberry and blackcurrant. It is drinkable now but will appreciate more ageing.
The 1981 is rich, spicey, plummy yet soft and silky as the tannins are fading. Quite delicious to drink now, it is not for keeping.
Where To Buy: From Oliver's Delicatessen. The 1989 is $3,190 per bottle, the 1981 $2,571 per bottle.