I like the label on Thistle Hill's 95 zinfandel. It is in a type size you can read in a dimly lit shop and it contains words of wisdom: Drink NOW! I did as instructed.
It is a juicy, sprightly little number, a good example of this Italian red that has flourished so impressively in California. Now, it is doing just as well in the hot, dry interior of Australia. Thistle Hill is in Mudgee, on the vast plains across the Great Dividing Range that cuts off interior New South Wales from the Pacific. The organic grapes came from the Cargo Road vineyard in the town of Orange and the wine is made by award-winner David Robertson.
It has a whacking great 14 per cent alcohol and a great, lively taste. The same winery puts out a chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, on sale in upmarket wine shops.
I have always liked a zin. It is unpretentious and makes a good, honest farmhouse wine, the stuff you can swig down in any small Italian town where it is probably produced around the corner. Imported by Kedington Wines (fax: 2898-9183) this is considerably more sophisticated and elegant, and at $198, it should be.