With its spittoons, mosaic floor, booths, huge open windows, songbirds in hanging cages and smoking waiters, Lin Heung teahouse is a slice of old Hong Kong. More than 100 years old, it is extremely cheap. Open from 6 am. 160 Wellington Street. Call 2544-4556. Adorned with antique Chinese birdcages, screens, lanterns and 1930s ceiling fans, China is big on style and comfort, although limited in dim sum variety. The few dishes that are available are as good as hotel fare. 17-22 Lan Kwai Fong. Call 2536-0968. Extremely popular, Victoria City is often quoted by locals as offering the best dim in town, as well as excellent Cantonese and regional dishes. 2/F Sun Hung Kai Centre, Wan Chai. Book early on 2827-9938. Unlike the meat-filled variety, vegetarian dim sum is lighter and less sleep-inducing. Try Healthy Mess at 51-53 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai. Phone 2527-3918. For an exceptional dim sum experience, try North Point's Treasure Restaurant, A ballroom-dancing venue where the har gau served at romantic, candle-lit tables surrounding a dance floor. Open most days from 3 pm - 6.30 pm at 436 King's Road. The schedule varies so call beforehand, 2563-0222. There is a minimum charge of $55.