Fukuki: 21-25 Wellington Street, Central, Hongkong. Phone 877-6668. Hours: 11.30 am-3 pm, 6-11 pm. Decor: Simplicity itself. Cuisine: Japanese. Clientele: Mostly Chinese. Reservations: Not necessary. Parking: On Lan Street. Cellular phones per table count:One in 10. Smoking policy: No non-smoking area. Overall value for money (out of five): three bowls here IN THE midst of Wellington Street's fast food restaurants, upmarket stores and building-site dust, Fukuki is set boldly back off the street as though empty space comes free in Hongkong. With an appealing and typically understated Japanese-style fascia, it looks the ultimately tranquil spot. Inside there is a generous lobby to traverse before being shown, to a chorus of sumimasen, past sushi bar and tatami rooms, and down a corridor to a large dining room. The decor was simple, country-style and perhaps verging on the cliched, rather than upmarket or sophisticated, with all the elements present that usually contrive to make eating in Japanese restaurants so civilised - light wood finishes, attractive lampsand subtle lighting, shoji screens, pale textured walls and beautiful table settings. After navigating the crowds in Queen's Road Central it felt calming and clearly encouraged diners to talk only in their quietest voices, displaying only their best manners. This was probably taking some effort, given service could not exactly be described as flowing, tending to begin and end with the arrival of the food. Securing further cups of the green tea, or an extra dish of soy sauce, required patience. In spite of looking so Japanese, the restaurant was not full to overflowing with Japanese businessmen. This, as one Japanese woman diner pointed out, did not have to be a bad thing: it made it a great place for wives of Japanese businessmen to moan about Japanese men without being overheard by their husband's best friend. As to the food, this was authentic Japanese, although the standard was generally average. The menu was about the longest seen in a Japanese restaurant and thus incredibly comprehensive. Things raw, boiled, steamed, fried, baked, grilled and so on, running into pages and pages. Sushi was billed as the house speciality, though sushi matsu ($250), recommended by the lone Japanese waitress, was ordinary rather than special. True it was fresh and typically good to look at, but the quality was not fantastic. Cha-soba cold green tea noodles ($50), with seaweed on top, plunged into a dish of soy sauce, garlic and onions, were a touch on the rubbery side. Grilled codfish ($95) with soya bean paste was more oily than it is usually served in Hongkong, but how the Japanese like to eat it. Best of the selection was baked eggplant ($55), elegantly cooked with miso and a delicious coating of minced chicken. There was even a raw egg perched on the top. It did not notch up as the most spectacular Japanese lunch, but the surroundings were pleasant and the place generally clean and airy; all reflected in a bill that came to about $250 a head.