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Edward Peters

Craig Celek is account director at digital communications agency the //connection. He travels to Seoul about 12 times a year.

seoul Time difference: One hour ahead.

Visa details: Few restrictions for short visits. Check with the Korean consulate, tel: 2528-3666.

Peak hours: 7 am - 10 am, 5 pm - 7 pm. Very peak.

Shopping hours: Major stores open from 10 am to 7.30 pm.

What's the best way to get there? Cathay Pacific - it leaves early in the evening, so you can do a day in the office, get on the plane and be in Seoul by 9.30 pm or so.

You must have a favourite hotel? I've got three. The Shilla has an ethereal quality to it, like the Peninsula but with Korean style. The Intercontinental has the best location. And I love the views from the Grand Hyatt.

Where do you go to: Put your feet up? Sit in Pagoda Park, or the grounds of the South Gate or the South Palace (near the Korean Hotel and City Hall stops of the Metro). It's peaceful watching people play traditional Korean stone games.

Grab a snack? At a street-stall near Pagoda Park. Korean street food is wonderful. Bimdabum - rice rolls smothered in chilli sauce like a hot ketchup - and Korean sushi are really good. And the steamed or fried fish rolls are delicious.

Do last-minute shopping? Duty Free Shop at the Hotel Shilla has good prices on perfume. Myong-dong is like Causeway Bay, but with stores that have two- or three-storey glass fronts. The visual merchandising is amazing and there is wonderful stuff both in the shops and at street-side vendors.

Let off steam? The sauna at the Grand Hyatt, running around the Olympic Stadium.

How do you get around? From the airport, I always take the Korean Air bus service which drops you at your hotel. Otherwise there are two sorts of taxis, one expensive, one less so but difficult to get in rush hours. The subway is logical, cheap and the best option for long distances as Seoul is so spread out.

Where's your favourite place for: Breakfast? The Plaza Cafe in the Grand Hyatt. Or the food court beneath the Intercontinental where there are lots of little places selling oodong, creamy soup noodles.

Lunch and dinner? Anywhere that does Korean barbecue. It is all done for you and the meats are cooked separately so the flavours don't get mixed up.

How much do you tip? Tipping is not a big deal. At some of the five-star hotels the bellboys won't take a tip, even in your room. There's a 21.5 per cent service charge at restaurants anyway, and in taxis you can just round up the fare.

Communications? A mobile phone with GSM works fine. The business centre at the Intercontinental is best; the rooms there have data ports and there are no hidden 'service' charges. There are a few Internet cafes but they haven't really caught on.

What gifts/corporate giveaways do you take? International top-end whisky for men, perfume or cosmetics for women.

What do you wear? In business, Koreans are more formal than almost anywhere else. For leisure it's still smart casual.

Business etiquette? If you have a meeting, your executives must be equal in rank to their executives. Appointments can be just for reference, rather than set in stone. And Koreans are passionate about their country.

Can you recommend: An unusual sight? I love the opera - it's the best in Asia, and so is the theatre. Even when it's in Korean it's marvellous.

A pick-up joint? JJs is supposed to be the place but I don't like it much.

How would you sum up doing business in Seoul? They say the Koreans are the Irish of Asia - let them do it their way.



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