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A spread of mixed fortunes

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THE Peace Restaurant in Causeway Bay is difficult to find - the lift that takes guests to the third floor is hidden by the Marks & Spencer store next door.

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We had eaten here before, so by the time we went upstairs to the large, low-ceilinged restaurant, our stomachs were already rumbling in anticipation of a Shanghainese feast.

Unfortunately, there were only three of us, and one was a vegetarian, so we were unable to order the variety we wanted.

We selected some cold dishes to nibble on while we decided on our main courses.

Dried beef in sesame was deliciously crisp - the intensely flavoured, paper thin shavings of beef were crunchy and addictive.

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Braised gluten was a great contrast: the tender gluten (a chewy wheat protein made from flour) was cooked in a rich sauce with bamboo, carrots and mushrooms.

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