Tiny Japanese restaurant Nanbantei of Tokyo - one of the newest places to open in Central's SoHo - is part of a chain with branches in the Japanese capital, Singapore, Seoul and Los Angeles.
The interior is long, dark and narrow, with a low ceiling. It is saved from being cave-like and oppressive by the friendly service and small, charming decorative touches in its crockery and prints on the walls.
This place specialises in yakitori - skewered, grilled foods. The menu lists 32 yakitori dishes and a short list of non-grill items (rice balls, steamed rice, soups and raw or pickled vegetables). There are a few daily specials, depending on what is fresh at the market.
The yakitori chef stands on an elevated platform, surrounded by seats for solo diners and those who like to watch the chef at work.
It is a slow, methodical process - not nearly as engrossing as watching a skilled sushi chef, but interesting.
Everything is cooked to order, so this is not the place to come for a quick bite.