Tiffin Lounge, Grand Hyatt Hotel Wan Chai, Tel: 588-1234 ext 7223 Sunday brunch: 11.30am to 2.30pm. WITH so many dazzling venues for brunch in this city, it's understandable that a restless sybarite might feel a touch of anxiety: will any given choice live up to all the fantasy selections in the Rolodex of one's mind? Brunches in Hongkong are as likely as any other repast to arouse such nervousness, for most hotels compete with Rabelaisian temptations. The recently-introduced Sunday brunch at the Tiffin Lounge offers a style demonstrably different from others: it relaxes the mind from the selection-overload (there's a modest but choice buffet and a small but choice menu), and relaxes the body. What better way to slip into a leisurely Easter Sunday than by clinking a glass of bubbly as you and yours sink into sumptuous sofas, luxurious loveseats and enveloping easy chairs. Brunchers may arrive in Armani silk, or trainer polyester. The welcome mat is open to all. The great windows offer a sweep of the harbour and a more intimate view of the charming park next door with its mini-waterfalls and sinuous paths. The magisterial black onyx columns of the vast open room may bring to mind the Temple at Luxor in Pharaonic times, but the service, despite the presence of tuxedoed waiters, is never imperially intimidating; on the contrary, it is crisp yet friendly, efficient yet pleasant. Unobtrusive piano music goes on uninterruptedly. Jon Nielsen, the engaging manager of the Tiffin, notes that the official title of the affair is ''Sparkling Brunch'', not just for its gastronomic dazzle, but because a sparkling white Italian wine - Martini Brut - is served instead of champagne. A good choice, it allows a few refills without undue strain on anyone's budget. The fresh baked breads include a few Danish that even a hummingbird could carry away, the very opposite of a weighty New York deli prune Danish that even a seagull could not tug at, while the croissants and muffins take nicely to the home-made jams. The game-plan is to make a sensible foray to the buffet table both before and after the menu courses. The ''before'' includes healthy options such as yogurts, granolas accompanied by raisins and pumpkin seeds; a salad of raddichio and various greens. The menu offers a first-course choice of the classic egg Benedict, decorated with a pyramid of caviar, or a satiny smoked Scottish salmon with thin bagel crisps and curly endive. The main course selection is filet mignon with mustard sauce, or an elegant surprise of a steamed half lobster, whose shell curls over a bed of spinach and cups around a swirl of pesto linguine. Then, it's back to the buffet for the triumph of the meal, a dessert selection billed as ''a dialogue of sweets.'' I'm not sure if the title implies a discourse between diner and dessert, or a trumpeting conversation between the mango and the chestnut mousses. At any rate, the bread pudding and the tiramisu both sound luscious, creamy notes. It's easy to make a timeless afternoon out of the Tiffin's brunch. Cost per adult is $250, plus 10 per cent service charge; $160 for children. Not unpricey, but worth it. Reservations are suggested.
