Club Camargue: 24/F Regent Centre, 88 Queen's Road, Central. Phone 525-7997. Hours: A little flexible but generally midday-2.30 pm and 7-11 pm Monday-Saturday; 6-10 pm Sundays and public holidays. Decor: Small but nicely laid out. Plain and simple but for the odd provincial, barn-door type features. Cuisine: The name suggests French, but dishes are broadly continental. Good value set lunches. Clientele: Loyal following of mostly expatriates. Service: Varies according to nationality and personality. Reservations: Recommended for lunch. Cellular phones per table count: None. Smoking policy: No non-smoking section. Overall value for money (out of five):31/2 plates. CLUB Camargue is, in that club sort-of-way, a place you get introduced to by a regular of the restaurant. As is the case with many other Hongkong restaurants with premises several floors up in soulless buildings accessed by cramped lifts, it is not the sort of place you stumble across. It felt established, which is more than you can say for the rash of restaurants so self-consciously designed - and then get a shelf-life. Sensitively put together and lacking any pretension, or thankfully a theme, the decor in Camargue didn't fall into adesign category ending in - ist or -esque, and the menu was written in a hand supporting the idea that creativity should be left to the chef. It was also brief, with dish descriptions to the point, yet it still managed to be full of things people enjoy eating. The wine list catered for people liking good-value Australian chardonnay as happily as those who habitually drink the chateaux of Bordeaux. Service was charmingly inconsistent, sometimes by the book and sometimes far more casual, with a refreshingly personal approach along the lines of: ''How about this table, it has good vibes . . . marriage proposals have been made and no one has ever saidno.'' Not the kind of chit-chat guaranteed to please everyone. The atmosphere was generally so congenial it would have been hard to have a bad dinner. Things got off to a promising start with warm and crusty white bread, the type designed for slopping up gravy, but which doubled up perfectly as something to soak up the beginnings of a bottle of Californian cabernet sauvignon. Food was presented in creative designs, but you didn't get the impression someone was using a set square to arrange slices of tomato around slices of avocado, before topping it off with a marvellously textured pesto. First-course marinated fresh salmon in dill and mustard sauce was fantastic, melt-in-the-mouth stuff. Moving on, risotto al funghi had a humble, home-cooked feel and a distinctive buttery edge, and though magret de canard with cranberry sauce was a soupcon on the tough side, the sauce was perfect. There was a long list of desserts, cheese, ports and so on, though creme caramel, served on a large plate with about half a dozen different fruits, would not have suited the purist. Grapefruit sorbet was already tasty even before a waitress had the marvellous idea of pouring vodka over the top. Definitely something for trying at home. There are smarter restaurants serving fancier food, where staff wear uniforms and do not flirt with each other behind the bar, but to eat and drink well for little more than $400 a head and not be required to pose, that's a pretty good deal.