Begin your day with a walk around the Kowloon Walled City Park on Carpenter Road. On the site of the former Kowloon Walled City, the award-winning public garden (open daily from 6.30 am - 11 pm) houses old buildings, a slice of the troubled history of what used to be Kowloon's Imperial Chinese garrison town. Three restaurants stand out in the area. Sweet Basil (73 Kai Tak Road, tel: 2718-8077) is an authentic Thai eatery, famed for its char-grilled pork's neck ($68), catfish with green mango salad and fried Thai cabbage sprouts. Fans of Chiuchow food should try Chong Fat (60 South Wall Road, tel: 2383-3114) for soya goose-breast slices ($60) and cold Chiuchow crab ($150 or $200). Viva La Cholesterol (68 Kai Tak Road, tel: 2718-2808) - the name is a celebration of attitude rather than cooking style - offers traditional Cantonese home cooking plus a few dishes of its own, all without MSG. Recommended are steamed eel with Chinese olives ($68) and thin slices of pig's cheek sauteed in soya sauce ($28). Ming Heung Tea House (77-79 Hau Wong Road, tel: 2383-4351) grows its own tea and serves it in a traditional ceremony. Those interested in learning more about the Walled City, should visit the exhibition Kowloon Walled City: The Lost City, by Ryuji Miyamoto, at the Arts Centre until October 30.