CROOKED Island is not an easy destination to reach. The only regular ferries to this peaceful outpost of the SAR connect with Shataukok, which is in no-man's land, the closed area that borders the mainland.
Without a special permit to enter Shataukok, there are only two alternatives: hire your own vessel, which can be very costly, or become a 'Chinese' tourist for a day.
I chose the latter, following the flag, the only European among about 100 local day-trippers, though I drew the line at being 'colour-coded' and hid the blue sticker in my wallet instead of displaying it on my T-shirt.
The tour was conducted in Cantonese, and my presence raised a few eyebrows from passengers who were obviously surprised to see a gweilo on the trip.
But you do not need to speak Cantonese to take in beautiful scenery or to eat a seafood lunch, and if you do your homework, you can even get by without a guide, just as you would have to if you paid through the nose for a charter vessel.
I had never been on a Chinese tour before, and prefer to explore alone, but doing things the local way was an experience in itself - and cheap.
The Hong Kong Ferry Company runs a number of one-day outings, and this eight-hour trip, including an eight-course meal, was advertised at a very reasonable $198. But a discount slip from a Chinese newspaper slashed the tour fee to only $99.