FOR Mrs Margaret Mondavi, wife of famed wine-maker Robert Mondavi - who was recently in town for the Wines of the Pacific Rim Festival - a love of Italian food means not jumping on the culinary bandwagon. Born near Locarno, in the Italian part of Switzerland, Mrs Mondavi's mother was ''an excellent cook'' with a wide, if simple, repertoire of dishes. ''As a child, I didn't fully appreciate her talent,'' Mrs Mondavi said. ''Now, in retrospect, I do. I may see myself as a glutton, but she taught me how to appreciate good food.'' Food in the family home relied on fresh ingredients simply prepared. ''There was always homemade soups and salads made from whatever was fresh on the day,'' she said. ''Each meal was in total harmony with the season, the occasion and the wine. My mother would only cook with the best available produce. Marriage expanded and consolidated her childhood experience. ''Good food and wine have always been an important part of my life. There is no more perfect complement. One brings out the best of the other.'' At the Mondavi winery in Napa Valley, California, one of Mrs Mondavi's responsibilities is a cooking school, founded in 1976. ''Our guest chefs have included all the top stars from France and America,'' she said. ''I arrange the master classes, sit in on them and translate when necessary. Of course, I've picked up culinary tips along the way, but I leave the teaching to the professionals.'' When cooking for friends, Mrs Mondavi invariably chooses an Italian-style meal. ''Italian food is light and pleases almost everyone,'' she said. ''Making people happy is very important. I want them to enjoy themselves. ''The other wonderful thing is that Italian cuisine goes so well with so many wines.'' Mrs Mondavi's main concern when entertaining is to provide food that is tasty. ''Good raw materials are the base for true flavour, and I am lucky to have access to the best,'' she said. ''I have a garden at the winery for fruit, vegetables and herbs, as well as a number of nearby markets for dairy produce and meat.'' Mrs Mondavi always cooks when friends come for Sunday lunch. ''I enjoy it. I find it very relaxing after a hard week. It's a rare moment of creativity,'' she said. The meal is served outdoors under an oak tree in the garden, looking out over the Napa Valley. The rural idyll is set with a wooden table and benches softened with fluffy pillows. Tableware includes pottery, wooden bowls, rough linen napkins and a huge jar of poppies and lupins. Late in the morning, the Mondavis will open a bottle of wine before preparations begin. Her husband does not cook, but sits in the kitchen with a newspaper, ''keeping me company''. Spring pasta, a simple dish of al dente penne tossed with feta cheese, black olives, diced tomatoes, lemon zest, basil and olive oil, is a favourite starter. It is served with the winery's Fume Blanc '90. This is followed by charcoal-grilled poussins (baby chickens) marinated in olive oil and garlic accompanied by a mixed green salad and a Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir '90. Dessert is a light dish of sliced blood oranges in Moscato d'Oro or port wine, but the meal does not finish there. ''It will continue as long as the conversation does,'' Mrs Mondavi said. GRILLED POUSSINS (serves four) 2 poussins Juice of one lemon 4 cloves garlic, crushed 1/4 cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Cut poussins in half. Make a marinade with the rest of the ingredients and pour over the chicken. Leave for one hour, turning frequently. Charcoal grill or broil for 4-5 minutes on each side until brown. Serve with mixed green salad. MIXED GREEN SALAD (serves four) Variety of mixed greens including frisee and arugula 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons wine vinegar 1 tablespoon red wine 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 shallot, finely chopped Salt and pepper to taste Wash the salad greens and tear into pieces. Make a vinaigrette by shaking the remaining ingredients in a jar. Before serving, pour over the greens and toss. - RACHEL WELLER