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Keeping it raw and simple for that light Italian touch

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FOR Mrs Margaret Mondavi, wife of famed wine-maker Robert Mondavi - who was recently in town for the Wines of the Pacific Rim Festival - a love of Italian food means not jumping on the culinary bandwagon.

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Born near Locarno, in the Italian part of Switzerland, Mrs Mondavi's mother was ''an excellent cook'' with a wide, if simple, repertoire of dishes.

''As a child, I didn't fully appreciate her talent,'' Mrs Mondavi said.

''Now, in retrospect, I do. I may see myself as a glutton, but she taught me how to appreciate good food.'' Food in the family home relied on fresh ingredients simply prepared. ''There was always homemade soups and salads made from whatever was fresh on the day,'' she said.

''Each meal was in total harmony with the season, the occasion and the wine. My mother would only cook with the best available produce.

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Marriage expanded and consolidated her childhood experience.

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