INTRICATE embroidery from Francois Lesage and Lemarie fancy feathers are some of the extravagant embellishments which mark the Guy Laroche haute couture spring and summer 1993 collection, designed by whiz kid Angelo Tarlazzi. Tarlazzi set out to prove that this was no collection to be taken seriously: contemporary, everyday wear has its place in the Guy Laroche pret a porter line created by Guy Douvier, but for the couture range Tarlazzi wanted to pull out all the stops and design a wardrobe for the woman who fancied a bit of exotica. The summer line features longer lengths and three rebellious beauties - mini-dresses in pearl, pink or white lace. Everything else covers the legs. Tent dresses stretch to the ankles, organza bell-bottom pants, a silk crepe under-jacket, blazer or bush-jacket form the basis. Beige and black replace springtime blue and white. And the inspiration? Portugal. With its deep blacks enlivened by the famous blue of the azulejos whose renowned ceramic tiles are caught in splinters on satin dresses with gold sequins and embroidery. The holiday mood of Estoril is captured in straw hats worn over black fichus, knotted in the style of Nazarene women and big handkerchief dresses in the inimitable black of a fado singer. All the oranges and yellows under the sun with bare-shouldered handkerchief dresses in midnight sun-shot taffeta. The roar of the sea can be heard in shimmering shades of sand - the beige of sea-soaked beaches combined with black for pyjamas and bush-jackets or chiffon pants under long blazers. There are lots of surprises in leather too - peach skin doeskin is cut with lantern, net or lobster pot patterns or cut into lattice-work pants and swimsuit cover-ups. So-called ''mystery'' coats have a ruffled satin lining which slips over the body like a petticoat. Just let them drop from the shoulders and they become dresses with trains, like some bird fanning its tail. For a couture classic there is trompe l'oeil embroidery. The most unusual dress comes in sand voile fitted with a pebbled bodice which hugs the waist - the pebbles being in granite coloured chiffon on a sequinned background of seaweed-toned quartz and sequins. Towelling boucle porcelain is worked into a hooded sweatshirt for the most beautiful work-out in the world and then therel is an evening top in carpet-effect porcelain, bristling like a white coral reef. Guy Laroche takes a wink at the anti-smoking campaign, too, with burnt cigarette hole embroidery on a white crepe evening dress. Plucked white rooster feathers are sewn wisp by wisp on a flesh pink chiffon bodysuit to flutter almost imperceptibly over the bust.