Dim sum with a savvy cop

Eighteen Brook boasts a spectacular harbour view, but Superintendent Gregory Lam Kai-bun sits with his back to the cityscape. Not that he does not appreciate the scenery. It is because he has been a Hong Kong cop for 31 years.

'Police officers like to sit with their back to the wall, so they don't have to watch their back. You are trained to always observe your surroundings and be on the look-out for anything unusual - it's a hard habit to break,' he says.

Another police convention, it seems, is dim sum. The variety of small dishes ensures dim sum is suited for a large group and speedy service means officers can refuel quickly and get back on duty. Mr Lam waits until the evening to savour his favourites - lobster, abalone and shark's fin soup.

Dim sum - like officers, insists Mr Lam - is sociable.

'If you go for a European meal, you just choose what you want to eat, but with dim sum everyone throws in ideas,' says Mr Lam. The restaurant, packed with lunch-time trade, echoes with the clatter of dishes.

Having gained weight since he left the criminal investigation section last year to move to the Police Public Relations Bureau (PPRB), Mr Lam is trying to diet, so he is happy to do away with the fattier meat dishes. He ticks half a dozen boxes on the dim sum card - it is in Chinese, so unless you can read the characters or are happy to take pot luck, it would be advisable to ensure one of your companions can decipher the menu.