It is Christmas Eve and you suddenly realise you need some wine. Why do you always leave it till the last minute? Do not panic: Santa Claus has been to Hong Kong and left the Andrew Garrett shiraz at Wellcome. This is a real gift: at $69 this easy-sipping wine is cheaper in the Hong Kong supermarket than in an Australian bottle shop. Shiraz is an ancient grape (its origins supposedly go back to the Assyrians, who gave it to the Egyptians, who passed it on to the Greeks, who lent it to the Romans, who took it with them to Gaul . . .) which seems tailor-made for the Australian climate. The winemakers at Andrew Garrett in South Australia's McLaren Vale seem particularly adept at getting the best out of the grape. The label proclaims this to be a 'bold shiraz' and the description is apt: take a sip of this flavoursome wine and the strong, spicy character takes command. If you do not drink it at the festive table, you can always tuck it away for next year. This is a big wine that will last until you decide you need something nice to drink with a leg of lamb.