WHEN Tony Bilson says ''a good restaurant should embrace all aspects of culture,'' he's not saying it off the top of his head.
At one of his landmark Sydney restaurants, Kinselas, patrons dined on some of Australia's most innovative cuisine while they viewed ground-breaking performances of cabaret, political satire and even modern dance - in a converted funeral parlour.
Mr Bilson, one of Australia's best-known chefs, is no food snob - he also says ''a hamburger can be a beautiful thing''.
The engaging Bilson will be the guest chef for this year's 6th annual festival of Australian wine and food at the Excelsior Hotel in Causeway Bay from May 1-15.
''There are really only two aspects to my cooking,'' he said. ''One is a great respect for the primary ingredient, which means getting the best available. The second is that the sauces provide a spectrum of tastes that complement that ingredient. It's accessible, modern and healthy - but not in a bean-sprout sort of way.'' This is Mr Bilson's first visit to Hongkong. A casual sort in a rumpled navy blue linen suit and Warhol-inspired bow tie, he feels completely at ease in Beijing, cooking for landed gentry in England or weaving his way home with friends after an evening at the pub.
He combines the attributes of a savvy host, one who enjoys the extremes of humanity, knows how to listen and contribute without dominating a conversation. He is the opposite of haughty.
Mr Bilson plans to give Hongkong diners an adequate choice over the next two weeks. Seafood and game will feature heavily, including such choices as ''Carpaccio of Tasmanian salmon marinated with chardonnay, chervil and virgin olive oil'', ''Sydney seafood quenelles with a shellfish tartar'', and ''Tasmanian lobster medallions braised in shiraz, with mushroom caps and garlic oil''.