Chuen Cheung Kui Restaurant, 108 Percival Street, Causeway Bay Tel: 577 3833 Hours: 11am to 11pm daily FORGET about the ambience and ignore the buzz, because in Chuen Cheung Kui Restaurant, what you get will be a Chinese-style McDonald's. The two-storey restaurant is a madhouse especially on the weekend. Waiters scurry around with thermos flasks of hot water and tea pots, dodging customers who hover over tables, ready to pounce when seats become vacant. But if the whole purpose is just to eat, this restaurant, near the site of what used to be the Lee Theatre, is a good deal. The Hakka food is tasty, sensible and comes in big portions fit for family gatherings. The prices are very reasonable. With at least eight items from each category of meat, fish, soups, vegetables, and tofu, there is enough variety for the average dinner. Hakka cooking boasts generous servings, representative of how Hakka families regard social gatherings and the value of food. One dish from Chuen Cheung Kui could easily serve five. The dishes are economical and hardly fancy. Don't expect pretty plates and exquisitely arranged dishes. The cutlery matches the simplicity of service. Wholesome and fulfilling best describes most of the dishes. It is all down to earth stuff. One of the restaurant's signature dishes is salt-roasted chicken. Look around. It has been ordered by practically every table. Though a bit salty on its own, the taste of good fresh chicken comes through the minute you dip a morsel into the plates of salt mixed with cooking oil. Another typical dish is deep fried pig's intestines. When it arrives, dip it into the sweet and sour sauce and eat it immediately. The outer layer is crisp and crunchy. But if you are tardy and wait too long, the pieces become soggy. Follow that rich and oily dish with something lighter. Try steamed yeung dau fu. It comes in rectangular pieces, each stuffed with minced meat paste and bits of shrimp. The shrimps give the paste a crunch and contrasts with the soft bean curd, giving thedish a crunchy-soft taste. Ask the waiter for the freshest vegetables of the day. One recommendation is water spinach fried with fermented dau fu paste. The paste compliments the water spinach and the taste is a relief from the usual fried vegetable with garlic. Though the waiters don't speak English, they are nice, jolly men and seasoned veterans. One way to order is to look around the neighbouring tables and decide what appeals to you. The restaurant's extensive menu is written only in Chinese. Dinner for four, with three dishes, costs about $250.