THERE was a time when the only way to reach Korea's northeast coast was to take the express bus from Seoul along the Yongdong Expressway and then, if there was not too much snow around, continue up the coast to Sokch'o, changing buses there for Soraksan National Park.
A pleasant summer alternative was to take a boat from Chunch'on along Soyangho Lake to Inje, and then approach the park from the back. Both these routes are still possible, but nowadays Sokch'o is served by a twice daily air shuttle from Seoul, making the coast and its beautiful hiking parks even more accessible.
Nevertheless, it is pretty hard to spot a western face amid the crowds of Korean honeymooners, weekenders, hikers and climbers that descend on Soraksan in ever increasing numbers, especially during the summer and autumn, when the mountain forests flush with colour.
The region offers a wealth of attractions for visitors, particularly off the beaten track, and Sokch'o is as good a place as any to taste them.
Clumped on the seashore around its own lake, Sokch'o has its own fishing fleet and hence a large number of raw fish restaurants in little alleys that lead down to the lake.
By overnighting here on the way to Soraksan, you can eat a magnificent round table of sashimi for a fraction of what it might cost elsewhere.
