Wu Yuen Restaurant 1 Wharf Road 1/F Provident Centre North Point Tel 880-0098 IT wasn't so long ago that North Point was referred to as Little Shanghai, and it remains the focus of the Shanghainese community in Hongkong. From Tin Hau to Tai Koo Shing there are literally scores of small, family-run Shanghainese restaurants, most bearing the ubiquitous and sinister-sounding name 369 - the kind of place you'd pop into for some steaming dan-dan noodles and a bottle of beer. There is a genuine homely warmth about Shanghainese (and Pekingese) restaurants, even the up-market ones, which sadly seems lacking in Cantonese establishments. However, one problem with Shanghainese cuisine is that you either have to ''slum it'' or fork out a thickish wad at one of the very expensive - though admittedly superb - Central restaurants. The places in-between, where it's not going to cost you an arm and a leg, but where you wouldn't be ashamed to take a visiting friend or client are hard to find, but they do exist in Little Shanghai: places like The Snow Garden on Electric Road (now a very popular item on the Food Festival circuit), Kiu Ka San next to Fortress Hill MTR station and - my destination - the Wu Yuen Restaurant on Wharf Road, next to the AMF bowling alley. This is a refreshingly quiet restaurant during weekday evenings and also at lunchtime. The service verges on the over-attentive, but is very friendly. In terms of decor and ambience the Wu Yuen can compete with the top Shanghainese establishments. Shanghai flavours are generally very rich and sweet, and this was certainly the case with the first dish we ordered at Wu Yuen: Preserved Chicken in wine ($50), also known as Drunken Chicken. It is a cold dish which many restaurants tend to spoil by being too sparing with the alcohol. But not at Wu Yuen. The chicken was well soused in the gold, pungent rice wine. However, Shredded Chicken with Green Peppers ($50) was a disappointment; all the ingredients had been shredded down to baby food, the sauce was bland and one had to search hard to find the chicken, or perhaps there was just too much green pepper. This one failure was soon forgotten with the arrival of two superb dishes: Grilled Fillet Beef with Scallions ($50) and Braised Broad Beans ($45). The chef had thrown a great fistful of scallions amongst the tender beef fillet slices. The braised broad beans was equally good, served in a wonderfully piquant sauce - the best I have tasted in a long time. Some experts, it seems, judge Shanghainese restaurants by the quality of their broad bean dishes (much the same as old yum cha hands judge a teahouse's dim sum by the quality of the shrimp dumplings). This being the case, the Wu Yuen can rightly stand up with the best of them. Finally, we opted for Tong-Pui Pork ($60): thick wedges of pork stewed in a wickedly rich sauce. Other dishes worth trying include Steamed Vegetable Dumplings ($35), Soup Noodles With Chicken and Yunnan Ham ($35), and Double Boiled Bean Curd in Casserole ($55). The bill for two, including beer and soft drinks, just crept over the $300 mark.