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WAVES and welcomes were plentiful but there were few public words from the normally-outspoken Lady Thatcher during her visit to Hongkong yesterday.

  The former British prime minister's first conquest of the charm offensive was the Director of the New China News Agency, Mr Zhou Nan, whom she met for an hour at his Stanley villa.

  Not only did Mr Zhou break into English to sing his guest's praises but he positively bubbled over.

  Lady Thatcher, however, uttered only 27 words: ''Very, very briefly. We met, we exchanged views. We are very pleased that [Sino-British] talks have started again and we hope they will come to a successful conclusion.''   The often-austere Mr Zhou enthused: ''I agree with every word Mrs Thatcher has said.''   Another convert was Mr Michael Lai Kam-cheung, director of the St James' Settlement Centre.

  ''We were simply delighted that she could come. She was very complimentary about our work and our staff and told us all to carry on,'' he said.

  Her afternoon tour coincided with the Governor's question and answer session in the Legislative Council.

  Inside the centre, there was her former campaign chairman on television, but the sound was turned down for her auspicious inspection.

  Lady Thatcher watched for a while, but gave up trying to lip-read as Mr Lai tried to introduce her to Chinese chess and mahjong.

  Mr Lai valiantly tried to enlist the support of a couple playing chess, but they were too shy - or afraid - to speak.

  After the flying visit to the centre, the Iron Lady went flying for real as she took off to see construction of the new airport at Chek Lap Kok.

  With that hairdo still firmly in place, she climbed back into the helicopter to visit the Royal Navy at its new base on Stonecutters Island.

  She then sailed back to HMS Tamar on the HMS Peacock in time for the navy to throw her a cocktail party.

   Legislative Councillor and businessman Mr Martin Barrow risked his waistline to be with Lady Thatcher twice, welcoming her to lunch at Jardine House and then indulging in the evening banquet laid on by Government House.

  The Conservatives Abroad members were disappointed not to be able to schedule a meeting with their former high priestess, but her mere presence in the territory was enough to raise their spirits.

  ''She will raise issues that need to be raised and in a very articulate way, as she always has - that can only be a good thing for Hongkong,'' said vice-chairman Mr Richard Harris.

  ''It will certainly add a string to Hongkong's bow and a spring to her step that she is here.''   Though Lady Thatcher waved to bystanders at each stop on her itinerary, the crowds of yesteryear were absent. Many people stared curiously, obviously aware that a VIP was in town, but unaware that this woman has had a significant effect on their lives, having put her signature on the accord that gave Hongkong back to China.



Territory melts to Thatcher's taciturn charm