FOR decades, the Russian faithful of Shanghai raised their voices in praise and thanks at St Nicholas Military Church, in what used to be rue Carneille in the French Concession. Today, gourmets speak with similar respect and enthusiasm of the food at Ashanti Dome restaurant - the church has been transmogrified from a place of worship into one of the most stunning restaurants in China. It is a truly remarkable change. It is one of the many old buildings in Shanghai protectively listed as a valuable monument to the city's past. So the exterior of the stately old Russian Orthodox church in what is now Gao Lan Road, in Lu Wan district, cannot be changed. The building harks to a fascinating era of Shanghai history. The Russian revolution of 1917 sent a wave of refugees across the vast Siberian plains. After the defeat of White Russian armies in the Far Eastern provinces in 1922, many ended up in Shanghai. Among them was a General Glebov, a Cossack. He was the prime mover among the large Russian community who wanted to build a church. It was designed by another Russian emigre, according to Shanghai-based author Tess Johnston who wrote God And Country: Western Religious Architecture In Old China. During the opening ceremonies in 1933, the building was dedicated to the memory of Tsar Nicholas II, killed along with his family by communists. Much of the glorious architecture and the even more stunning interior decoration remains. Refurbishment has been done with verve, by Hong Kong designer Cheng Kam-yuen of Rock's Construction. The ground floor opens up into a small foyer and wine bar, which then expands into the main 60-seat dining room. Walls are off-yellow, edged with white. Dark blue tablecloths and smart uniforms of the well-trained, friendly, English-speaking staff give the room an aura of elegance. There is a walk-in wine cellar, but scanning the labels is a mite confusing. They are all Ashanti wines from South Africa, which reminded me to ask manager Joman Chan why the restaurant is called the Ashanti Dome. I sipped a glass of the 1997 Sauvignon Blanc ($230 a bottle) and got the story of this eatery, whose antecedents and present ownership have a multinational relationship as twisted as Shanghai's past. Mr Chan is from Hong Kong, who worked in renowned eateries like Plume at the Regent and Gaddi's at The Peninsula. The staff are all local, mostly newcomers to the industry, whom Mr Chan has trained meticulously. The developer-owners are Frenchman Alain Guernier (who founded Byron Hotels) and the Swiss entrepreneur Manfred Schoeni. Mr Schoeni also owns the Ashanti winery in Stellenbosch, South Africa, which explains the contents of the cellar. After trying to get this straight, I was thirsty. How about a red? Mr Chan opened a bottle of the 1998 Ashanti Cabernet Sauvignon ($380). This is packed with tannins and needs to stand for an hour, so I had a beer as I waited, and wandered upstairs. This is where the Dome in the title comes from. It is a truly stupendous room, the crowning dome of the church. I could imagine the Russian faithful falling to their knees in front of the vividly painted icons of Moses and other unidentifiable (by me) religious figures that adorn the sloping walls and the ceiling. There are half-nude women in glowing life-size colour in panels around the walls. Above them, the panels widen until they join at the dome. Archangels and prophets swirl around the ceiling. By day, light streams into the room through stained glass. A huge 24-seat table can be placed in the middle of the circular dome floor for private functions. Every seat faces one of the angels. This should give you an appetite for the dishes of Alsatian chef Joel Tisserand. He worked in London and Paris before going to Hong Kong four years ago (Tables 88 in Stanley was his last role) and brings to Shanghai a definite commitment to fine classical French cuisine. The menu is comprehensive, but small enough to be manageable. I considered the warm duck with beetroot to start, but spurred by Mediterranean memories, I went for the fish soup ($58). This was obviously fresh, with small chunks of solid white fish amid the tasty blended liquid. Accompanied by house-made French and brown bread, it was a substantial starter. To the chagrin of Mr Tisserand, I opted for his aubergine and courgette lasagne ($78). 'Try the lobster in citrus juice,' he urged. 'How about the honey glazed leg of lamb? Or lemon peppered duck? A steak, maybe?' No. I was stern and resolved, bolstered in my decision, no doubt, by the sight of all those slim angels. Ashanti Dome, 16 Gao Lan Road, Lu Wan, Shanghai. Tel: (86-21) 5306 6777