BONNIE Gokson is the quintessential Joyce woman. As image director and chief buyer for the group her word is god, especially when it comes to cooking up a new menu for the cafe where some of the territory's beautiful people gather. ''I love food,'' she said. ''I learned about food from my mother who was a very good cook. I also took a number of courses. ''But it is also about the passion you have for food, you want to learn how that special taste makes it so wonderful. ''I dream food, I think food, and my eyes glitter when I see it.'' Joyce Cafe opened last June and has proved a big success. The concept behind it is wholesome cuisine without red meat. The bulk of the dishes are vegetarian, but fish does occasionally sneak into the menu. The cafe is also renowned for its desserts, which promise all sorts of wicked self-indulgence. Gokson has been slaving over a hot stove experimenting for the cafe's 1993 spring-summer menu and those who lunch there can expect a feast of healthy dishes, laced with designer ingredients.. There is six herbs spaghetti, a simple and light pasta dish of fresh garden herbs and spinach tossed in olive oil; a 9 Queen's Rd dou fu fah, a feathery light soya curd soup with crispy vegetables topped with spring onions; and the ''dream plate'', steamed artichoke heart topped with crabmeat salad, bundled in smoked salmon slices. When it comes to desserts there is a summer trifle cup, an expresso ice-cream with burned honey sauce and black sesame-filled glutinous rice balls in fragrant syrup. ''Even though this is our third menu and all of them have been very successful, our policy is to change recipes every three months,'' Gokson said. ''You have to keep it innovative, exciting, light and fresh. How do you do all that? You just keep experimenting. ''We will be keeping the old favourites like the club sandwich, but I would say we are also introducing about 15 new dishes including desserts. ''It is also artichoke season and I am a great fan of this vegetable. We are getting the nicest artichokes from Italy. They are very good for the kidneys. ''We prepare it in the Milanese way, braised with herbs, a little garlic and some new potatoes. ''We will also have a very thick prawn toast, but it will be on wholegrain bread. Recipes with a twist, that is how I see it.'' With so much designer food on offer it is clear Gokson is heavily influenced by the changing fashions of food. ''Because I travel a lot I am exposed to an enormous variety of international food,'' she said. ''Food is just as mercurial as fashion. We all remember the nouvelle cuisine for example when it came in, now the food, like the fashion, is much more relaxed and it is more wholesome. ''The presentation is still important and we do style the food but it is more at ease.'' But what food would she cite as her favourite? ''Chinese food has to be my favourite. Apart from anything there are so many provinces which offer different dishes, you can never get bored with it. ''Some of the Chinese dishes here are not necessarily Cantonese, sometimes they are a little bit northern. I am always learning about new Chinese foods with my Cantonese chef - we are learning together.'' One of the main reasons for the popularity of the restaurant, Gokson claims, is the use of first-class ingredients. ''Ingredients are very important. We use extra-virgin olive oil, which immediately gives a wonderful taste. Our tomatoes come from Naples, they are the sweetest in Italy. We use King Island cream from Australia, which is the best you can buy. We buy most of our vegetables locally. ''A lot of our Chinese dishes contain local products. We buy the best, it doesn't matter where it comes from. We are very proud of Joyce Cafe, we have found ourselves quite a little niche in the group. ''What makes me proud is that other people in the profession come here to see what's on offer.'' Six Herbs Spaghetti FINELY chop fresh spinach leaves with six fresh herbs - sage, mint, marjoram, basil, rosemary and oregano. Use double the amount of herbs as spinach. Heat a little diced garlic in olive oil over medium heat, lightly toss in the spinach-herb mixture and adda dash of salt and pepper. Meanwhile, cook spaghetti until it is al dente, drain and quickly mix in a teaspoon of butter. Mix the pasta with the cooked herbs, add some olive oil and serve with Parmesan cheese. Summer Trifle Cup SOAK light sponge cake or sponge fingers in a little medium dry sherry. Make a vanilla custard of cream, milk, vanilla bean, egg yolk and sugar. Make a fruit-flavoured jelly such as strawberry, leave to set and slice. Cut and toss mixed fruit - peaches, kiwis, mangoes, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries and passion fruit - in a small amount of lime juice and sugar. Layer the serving cup starting with the sponge soaked in sherry, fruit, jelly and custard; repeat until topped.