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MISTRAL

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MISTRAL B2, Grand Stanford Harbour View 70 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East Tel: 2733 8751 Open: Monday-Saturday noon-2.30pm, 7pm-10.30pm, Sunday 7pm-10.30pm Tucked out of sight - but not out of mind (if the full house is anything to go by) is this comfortable, snug restaurant.

Homesick Italians seem to like this place too, and their chatter only adds to the authenticity.

The creative chef makes some delicious food. If you're lucky he'll tickle your tastebuds with an amuse buche of just-done quail eggs, still slightly soft in the centre, and topped with caviar.

We also love the eggplant gnocchi, which are unusual and light. The soft texture contrasts beautifully with the unusual garnish of deep-fried shreds of asparagus.

Seabass is cooked in foil with herbs and sliced vegetables. This cooking method gently steams the fish while sealing in the flavours of all the ingredients, so they blend together into a wonderfully subtle sauce.

Service is excellent: attentive without being overwhelming.

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