Everyone is doing the Mocca and Java Arabica
WHEN tastes change in Hongkong, they change quickly.
Not so long ago, pundits were predicting the public would never eat hamburgers, never eat pizza, and never drink wine. Those same prophets of doom are now eating their words.
Coffee was another item which Hongkong people were never going to like. Tea was the preferred drink, and coffee was simply not in the culture.
But look at what is happening.
Restaurants are serving huge amounts of coffees, including many exotic blends, and for some, the coffee listing is an important part of the menu.
Further, small shops selling freshly roasted coffee beans are beginning to sprout up around town, and are reporting very encouraging sales indeed.
''I think we are reaching a situation where coffee is becoming very much like wine,'' said Russell Frederickson, managing director of Uncle Russ, a shop which opened in Tsim Sha Tsui's Canton Road in October last year.
''People are becoming connoisseurs. And of course the two are linked, in that those dining out frequently and trying wines are also going to be keen on trying coffees.'' Growing sophistication in food tastes, more overseas travel, and the money with which to indulge in new ideas all play their part in turning people on to fine coffee.
''There is a growing interest in quality coffee,'' said Traci Hickson, of Jebsen and Co's fine food and wine department.
''The Hongkong Chinese are now becoming aware that if they are spending $30 on a cup of coffee, it should be a good one.'' Ms Hickson heads up the coffee division which was set up in Jebsen's in January this year.
''We had never tried co-ordinating coffee machines with coffee sales before,'' said Ms Hickson. ''But although we only began in January, interest is starting to snowball.'' Suzuki handles coffee varieties such as Blue Mountain, Brazil Santos, Mocca, Colombian and Java Arabica.
''Apart from the familiar names, we are also able to make special blends to customers' specifications,'' said Ms Hickson.
The irresistible fragrance of freshly roasted coffee plays a major part in attracting customers, as any of the small shops which have begun to open in strategic locations will vouch.
One of Uncle Russ' big advantages is that although the premises are small, they are large enough to allow customers to linger and sample the coffees on offer, said Russell Frederickson.
''It's almost becoming a meeting place,'' he said. The extraordinary growth of independent restaurants is also greatly helping coffee sales, and the recent crack-down on restaurants without liquor licences is unwittingly encouraging coffee drinking.
American Pie and Cafe Afrikan are two outlets which do not yet have licences to sell alcohol, but they do have excellent listings of coffees and are finding that sales are encouraging.
''The original plan was to make the restaurant into a wine bar-style place . . . but we have been doing very well with our coffees,'' said Cafe Afrikan manager Karen Wang.
Ms Wang explains that Cafe Afrikan has 15 varieties of coffee, including Academia nut, Kenya AA, Mocca Java, and Ethiopian. The restaurant grinds its own beans.
As to the health aspects of coffee drinking, it seems as if this is still some way down the road.
''We do sell decaffeinated, but not so much,'' said Ms Wang. ''That is probably some way in the future.'' ''People are experimenting more and more,'' said Mr Frederickson. ''It's all being accepted on a far broader scale than I had though it would be.''
