Our recent visit to a sun-drenched Cococabana is etched in our minds. We relaxed in wicker chairs overlooking the beach, sipped sundowners and admired the twinkling lights of the high rises in the distance. Only this wasn't the Brazilian beach made famous in the cheesy Barry Manilow song. It was a restaurant on the seafront at tiny Mo Tat Wan on Lamma Island, overlooking Ap Lei Chau. It was, we agreed, the next best thing to flying to Rio de Janeiro itself.
With its green shuttered doors, blue floor and wooden deck, Cococabana is funky and laid-back, humming to the wistful sounds of Bob Marley. We began with fried shrimps ($68), which numbered more than a dozen and were slathered in garlic and sprinkled with parsley. The French bread was perfect for mopping up the diced tomato, onion and garlic sauce. The feta salad ($52) was also delicious; chunks of pungent cheese on thinly sliced and lightly toasted French bread, with romaine lettuce coated in a honey and thyme dressing.
One of our entrees - the bouillabaise - was a must-have. The stew was spicy, filled with sardines, clams and white fish and was a credit to Marseille's signature dish. At $300, we thought it a little pricey, but the menu made clear it was for two and in the event, it easily could have stretched to three. The free-range roasted chicken ($130) was superb for being plump and seasoned with fresh rosemary and garlic. It was also enough for two and came with potato chips and crunchy French beans.
We rounded off by sharing a light, creamy creme brulee ($42) which was sublime. Dinner totalled $1,120 for two, which also included a bottle of crisp Tuscan white wine and drinks. It was difficult to find fault with such a surreal occasion. Visit for a romantic dinner or a wonderful way to round off a hike on Lamma. Reach Mo Tat Wan by the ferry from Aberdeen, which stops en route to Sok Kwu Wan. Alternatively, take the ferry to Sok Kwu Wan from Central, and walk for 20 minutes after turning left from the pier.
7 Mo Tat Wan, Lamma Island. Tel: 2328 2138. Open: Tue-Sun noon-11pm. $$$$
