Down a couple of the Viceroy's daiquiris before you delve into the Wan Chai restaurant's comprehensive menu: you'll need them to navigate through the flowery language. This is not your average Indian restaurant serving up bhajis and tikka masala. With its new-look decor featuring mosaic-embossed walls, the menu has also struck out in a refreshingly brave direction. The staff are knowledgeable and more than happy to explain dishes in further detail.
After demolishing the crisp, tasty and complimentary poppadoms and relishes, we couldn't wait to try our starters. The spicy tomato soup ($48) was satisfying with hints of ginger and coriander while the batons of deep-fried kingfish ($68), which had been marinated in a spicy batter, were delicious. The most interesting appetiser was the vegetable seekh kebab ($68) - which contained nine vegetables mashed up with cottage cheese, walnuts and plums, and seasoned with rose petals. Cooked in a tandoor oven its texture was interesting although a little on the dry side.
The main courses were just as pleasing. The vegetarian dish of zucchini and cottage cheese with nuts and saffron ($78) was spiced with cardamom and was faultless. Likewise, the prawns, baby squid, mussels and oysters ($148) were a treat, simmered in yoghurt and coconut milk, and seasoned with coriander and green pepper. Its only drawback was its colour, a chocolate brown that made it look less appetising. The other entree comprised pieces of braised chicken with cloves and cardamom simmered in yoghurt with black pepper and coriander ($98). We decided not to order any vegetable side dishes and instead opted for plain rice and two portions of garlic naan bread ($20).
The meal was so filling we declined desserts. The bill came to $1,000 with service and tip, and comprised three watermelon and Bacardi daiquiris, three starters, three entrees, two soft drinks and a coffee, which was as good value as we remembered the Viceroy to be.
2/F Sun Hung Kai Centre, 30 Harbour Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2827 7777. Open daily noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm. $$$$