Chillies can make or break a meal: use one too many in a dish and they deaden taste buds, masking subtle flavours that normally would be enhanced. Use too few and you lose the oomph.
With this in mind, at Tom Yums Thai restaurant and bar in SoHo (look for the cheesy wall murals), we ordered dishes with differing numbers of chillies. The helpful menu not only explains the meaning of common Thai culinary words but also indicates the level of spiciness of each dish. Diners with fire extinguishers on hand can order the five-chilli Crazy Prawns, whose simple description of 'dangerous' should be enough to scare away all but professional fire-eaters.
We started with the safe por pia sod (spring rolls), opting for the vegetarian version ($45). Steamed, instead of fried, the four rolls were fresh, as promised, moist and delicious, thanks to the mint/basil combination that rendered them tasty enough to eat without the sweet, slightly spicy dipping sauce.
The deep-fried pomfret ($98) was our only non-chilli order. Presented majestically on an elevated ceramic dish that resembled a hot-pot vessel, it was smothered by a tangy tamarind and shallot sauce that at first was scrumptious but soon became sickly. This dish proved to be a respite, however, before the hellish three-chilli som tum (papaya salad), which comes in three versions; diners can substitute either carrot or green mango for the traditional papaya. Served Thai-style the dish, according to the menu, is 'new in Hong Kong' and 'all the rage in Bangkok'.
Having consumed the classic papaya salad in Thailand by the troughful, we chose the carrot alternative ($45), which included shrimp, tomatoes and crushed peanuts. Sadly, even with the raw string beans and cabbage to douse the flames, it still proved too incendiary. Which is not to say it wasn't good. It's just that we lost all sense of taste after the first few mouthfuls.
However, the two-chilli larb tofu, with limes, garlic and onions ($45), was just right, spicewise. Perhaps that's why we voted it the best dish on our table. Lunch for two, including service and two very sour lime drinks, cost $299. Unfortunately, wimps that we are, some of the food had to be left behind. But at least we now know our pain threshold. Next time, we'll be two-chilli diners.