Formerly known as the Chiu Chow Garden, Lippo Restaurant has a totally different atmosphere from that of its predecessor. A traditionally decorated interior - featuring red lanterns and Chinese paintings - has been transformed into chic and modern, and even the bright colour scheme has given way to more subtle shades. The only thing that has survived the radical transformation is the large window looking out on the hustle and bustle of Queensway. The menu, however, has retained its Chiu Chow characteristics.
We enjoyed the deep-fried fish ($48), which was covered in light and crunchy batter but meltingly soft inside. The soy goose slices with bean curd ($88), a Chiu Chow speciality, also pleased. Served in a light but tasty soy sauce, the tender meat and fresh bean curd were superb. The pan-fried baby oyster omelette 'Chiu Chow style' ($68) tasted great, but was too starchy. Steamed crab claws with melon slices ($108) were delicious. The light gravy - flavoured with pork and black mushrooms - helped elevate the dish. We also liked the stewed assorted mushrooms with bean curd ($78). The mushrooms infused a subtle piquancy into the home-made bean curd, which was irresistibly light and creamy.
For dessert, we had steamed 'crystal' dumplings filled with sesame paste and lotus seed puree ($20). They were not heated long enough, leaving them with a thick, chewy wrapping and lukewarm filling. The meal for three, including drinks, was $615.
G/F Lippo Centre, Queensway, Admiralty. Tel: 2845 4151. Open: 11am-11:30pm. $$