SIMPLICITY is the essence of Yuet Wah Wui's design. Unlike some of its neighbours, the small restaurant in Lockhart Road does not have a grand entrance to impress passers-by.
The interior is typical of many no-frills eateries in town, where little attention is paid to creating a cosy dining atmosphere.
But it is proof that restaurants do not need a luxurious decor to lure customers as long as the food is high quality. On a recent Sunday evening, we were just one of the groups of eager diners who flocked to find that all the tables had been taken up. We were therefore glad to have made a reservation as it guaranteed us a table as soon as it was ready.
A waiter handed us the menu and, at our request, also gave an English version. But we managed to familiarise ourselves with the house specialties simply by looking around at the signs pasted over the walls. While seafood dominated the 'menu', there was also a good selection of meat dishes such as pigeon and chicken. Given the crowd waiting for tables, we felt obliged to order quickly.
We started with boiled clams ($52), recommended by our waiter and a favourite with every table. Served with chives and chilli in a hot broth, it proved a tantalising choice. The clams were fresh and tasty and the mildly spicy broth whet our appetites.
Having finished the clams in just a few minutes, we were eager to sample the other dishes we ordered. The 'salad ribs' ($55) turned out to be equally impressive, with succulent meat smothered in a sweet barbecue sauce and topped with mayonnaise.
Oysters were served either deep-fried or with ginger and garlic, and we opted for the latter. They came piping hot in a casserole and, at $90, were value for money. We had no reason to question the freshness of the steamed fish ($192 per catty) as the fish was shown to us just before it went into the kitchen. It was cooked to perfection and garnished with shredded ginger and spring onion.