Uncle Willie's Deli

Since changing its name and management recently, the former Wyndham Deli - now Uncle Willie's Deli - has left regulars disgruntled. They say the quality of the food and the portions, at dinner at least, have deteriorated. Known for its fresh salads, vegetable dishes and lavish cakes, the Wyndham Deli was hugely popular for both its eat-in and take-away customers. Had it really changed?

On a quiet evening, we put it to the test. The Caesar salad ($35 small/$75 large) - layered with slivers of parmesan and crisp prosciutto - gave no cause for alarm. Although without anchovies, it was fresh and tasty. The char-grilled vegetables with chunky feta ($35/$75) was also pleasant but had crumbles, rather than chunks, of feta. Grilled sausages with Spanish onion marmalade, gravy and mash ($98) sounded more exotic than it was. The marmalade failed to add any bite and the gravy was rather bland. But the char-grilled burger with red onion jam and chips ($98) did not disappoint - it was tasty and perfectly cooked .

Some things never change - in this case the desserts. Baked cheesecake and lemon meringue pie ($45 each) - heavenly, huge portions of perfection on plates - finally provided the night's highlight. The verdict? An enjoyable but unexceptional meal. At $675 for two with a coffee each and two glasses of wine ($45 each) it should have offered a higher standard of fare.

36 Wyndham Street, Central. Tel: 2522 7524. Open: Monday-Saturday 7am-11pm. Sunday 9am-6pm. $$$