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Tim Lim

Two nights in Bangkok

Bangkok's burgeoning fashion scene is, not surprisingly, unlike the world's fashion capitals - but who cares? The difference: it's Thai. This is not as obvious an observation as one might think. A lot of Asian designers (Hong Kong's included) are so concerned with looking 'international' they forget where they come from, aspiring to standards that are not their own, or worse, prostituting their culture for mass, mainly Western, consumption.

There was none of this at the recent Elle Bangkok Fashion Week. More of a well-organised fashion 'weekend', it showed 11 local designers (plus special guest Tracy Mulligan from Britain) over three days in an enormous tent outside the Central Chidlom Marakot department store. At first glance, it could have been any other glam fashion function: lots of ostentatious tai-tais, editors, trendy young things and beautiful models (many of whom had once been men).

However, the enthusiastic and underivative approach to design was remarkable. Along with next January's Bangkok International Fashion Fair (www.bkkfashionfair.com), an annual exhibition of the kingdom's increasingly important fashion, garment and textile industries, the Elle event is first and foremost a product of cultural pride. Forget pretty posturing and polite applause: audiences cheered and jeered the looks they loved and loathed, and models outdid each other imitating old school divas Dalma, Iman and Pat Cleveland. Here are the highlights ?

Nagara for Jim Thompson

Jim Thompson was a legendary American architect who made Bangkok his home and Thai silk famous. He disappeared without trace in the Cameron Highlands in 1967, but lives on in this expensive collection of electric-coloured, ethnic-inspired evening wear. Designed by the elusive Nagara using fabrics from Thompson's shop (a must-visit at 9 Surawong Road), it is for the woman who has everything - most importantly, personality. Enquiries: (662)

632-8100.

Kai

One of the first and most anticipated shows was national treasure Somchai Kawtong, aka Kai. 'Kai is Thailand's first real fashion designer,' said Elle fashion director Kullawit Laosuksri. 'Before him, there were only dressmakers.' The designer, who has been compared to Yves Saint Laurent, showed a collection of beautiful evening gowns and day dresses in innovative fabrics and sleek silhouettes. For shop locations and enquiries, contact (662) 250-0521.

Greyhound

The equivalent of G2000 in Thailand, only a lot more stylish, Greyhound is the closest thing you'll find to a lifestyle brand in Bangkok. Located in malls and department stores throughout city, it also has chic cafes in select stores and shopping centres (the Emporium location is the fashion crowd's favourite hangout). And the clothes? Urban, of-the-season and affordable. Enquiries: (662) 258-3156.

Mae Fah Luang

Best show honours go to Mae Fah Luang, a beautiful collection of one-of-a-kind, wearable separates in extraordinary fabrics. Designed by Mook, a graduate of St Martin's fashion college in London, the collection is a stunning synthesis of tradition, innovation and altruism. The fabrics are all woven in Chiang Rai by the Mae Fah Luang foundation, which was established by Thailand's late Princess Mother to stop opium production by giving arts and crafts vocations to the area's hill-tribes. Feathers are woven into nest-like knit tops and hemp has been incorporated into basket-like bodices and skirts - gorgeous and guilt-free. Enquiries: (665) 371-7433.

Fly Now

Stocked by top retailers including Brown in London, Fly Now is undoubtedly Thailand's edgiest and most internationally recognised brand. We loved the gold-leaf applique and sexy versions of traditional Thai fisherman's pants, which were tailored in pinstripes and houndstooth.'This is the signature collection we show during London fashion week, so it's more 'fashion forward',' explained label head Sirichai Sripaisal, who also oversees a more accessible mass-market line under the same name. Enquiries: (662) 259-4760.



STYLE