OF ALL THE regions in France, perhaps the Rhone Valley is the one that can justifiably be most proud of its stunning attractions. From the steep valley sides of the north - home to the terraced vineyards of Cote Rotie, Condrieu and Cornas - the 200-kilometre valley opens up further south leading to the wide open vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, one of France's most famous wines.
Visitors to the Rhone Valley by road or rail from northern France know instinctively when they have reached the region by the way the light changes startlingly at Vienne. As the traveller heads south, there is a luminescence that casts a glow on the landscape. It has drawn the likes of painters such as Van Gogh and Cezanne and marks the gateway to the Mediterranean south.
The famous Cotes du Rhone vineyards are best explored by car because they are often remotely located. All ask that visitors to phone ahead so an English-speaking guide can be arranged. Unlike in Australia and New Zealand, where visitors to vineyards are often able to take along a picnic or visit on-site restaurants, the imbibing of wine in France is taken a little more seriously and with a certain Gallic sense of propriety.
Twenty minutes' drive away is Gabriel Meffre (Tel: (33) 4 9012 3246) in the magnificent village of Gigondas - worth a visit to see one of France's most picturesque and perfectly preserved villages nestling under the craggy pine-clad peaks of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Meffre is a privately owned negotiant company specialising in creating top-quality wines from the Rhone Valley and Provence.