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Cotes du Rhone, France

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OF ALL THE regions in France, perhaps the Rhone Valley is the one that can justifiably be most proud of its stunning attractions. From the steep valley sides of the north - home to the terraced vineyards of Cote Rotie, Condrieu and Cornas - the 200-kilometre valley opens up further south leading to the wide open vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, one of France's most famous wines.

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Visitors to the Rhone Valley by road or rail from northern France know instinctively when they have reached the region by the way the light changes startlingly at Vienne. As the traveller heads south, there is a luminescence that casts a glow on the landscape. It has drawn the likes of painters such as Van Gogh and Cezanne and marks the gateway to the Mediterranean south.

The famous Cotes du Rhone vineyards are best explored by car because they are often remotely located. All ask that visitors to phone ahead so an English-speaking guide can be arranged. Unlike in Australia and New Zealand, where visitors to vineyards are often able to take along a picnic or visit on-site restaurants, the imbibing of wine in France is taken a little more seriously and with a certain Gallic sense of propriety.

One of the region's finest vineyards is the Chateau Beauchene at Piolenc (Tel: (33) 4 9051 7587; e-mail: [email protected]), which has been in the Bernard family since the 1794. With its beautiful 18th-century chateau overlooking the vineyards, the Beauchene estate epitomises the image of French wine-making. Among the appellations it offers are Chateauneuf-du-Pape (about 70 francs - HK$105 - for a vintage 98), Coteaux du Tricastin (23 francs for a 98) and Cotes du Rhone Village for a little more.
Henry Bouachon in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Tel: (33) 4 9083 5835) is handy for dropping by to pick out wines such as Gigondas, Tavel and Vacqueyras from its shop with friendly staff, while a stone's throw away lies Maison Brotte/Pere Anselme (Tel: (33) 4 9083 7007; fax: (33) 4 90 83 73 34; e-mail: [email protected]), noted for its wine museum and Chateauneuf-du-Pape in bottles with a slight twist to their neck.
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Twenty minutes' drive away is Gabriel Meffre (Tel: (33) 4 9012 3246) in the magnificent village of Gigondas - worth a visit to see one of France's most picturesque and perfectly preserved villages nestling under the craggy pine-clad peaks of the Dentelles de Montmirail. Meffre is a privately owned negotiant company specialising in creating top-quality wines from the Rhone Valley and Provence.

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