Stanley is undergoing a renaissance of sorts. Whether the area's charm is diminished or enhanced by new developments is debatable, but the stretch of restaurants and bars along the waterfront remain one of the best spots on Hong Kong Island for lingering over a drink or meal.
Saigon At Stanley is a new restaurant in an established setting. Its dining area, occupying the first and second floors, has balconies and open doorways, offering diners a panoramic view of the bay. On a recent visit during the festive season, decorative lights illuminated the sky.
Inside, the wicker chairs, fans and GOD-style crockery give it a contemporary, upmarket feel typical of modern Vietnamese restaurants. A description which also fits the extensive menu, similar to the one in Saigon's sister restaurant in Wan Chai. There are large sections of vegetarian, seafood and meat dishes.
Starters of steamed pork and black mushroom ravioli ($60) and minced eel and garoupa cake ($78) were excellent. Both consisted of four pieces, but lacked dipping sauce, apart from the complementary vinegar and a chilli sauce we received upon request. Pumpkin soup with shrimps ($58) was a disappointment, a tiny serving which was too thick and bland.
Main dishes of braised cod fish and pork simmered in caramel sauce ($168) and roast duck with orange honey glaze and Vietnamese herbs ($142) were both rich and delicious. The cod retained its delicate flavour under the sticky topping, while the duck was succulent and beautifully presented. Side portions of coconut rice ($26) and steamed white sticky rice with perfume mushrooms and herbs ($38), both disappointed. The latter was too dry, while both were overpriced for the pitifully small portions. Plain rice would be a better option.
For dessert, the flambeed banana ($68), accompanied by a rich caramel sauce ice-cream, was an almost overwhelming delight. Rice dumplings filled with peanut sauce in a ginger broth ($58) were much lighter and cleansing on the palate.