Many wineries in Paarl and other South African wine regions, still have their roots deep in the farming origins of the Cape settlement. Wine is part of daily life. And so is sturdy, tasty, healthy food. It's virtually impossible to drive around the Paarl cellars without enjoying superb food at prices that seem astonishingly affordable, because of the weakness of the South African rand.
At estates such as Simonsvlei, where you can dine in a cellar or out on the lawn, there's an aura of elegance as you sip their Hercules Paragon 98 semillon - with a whacking 14.11 per cent alcohol content - in the al fresco Fountain Courtyard (tel: 27(0) 21-8 63 3040).
At weekends, they hold the traditional farmhouse barbecue (braai in Afrikaans) which is as substantial as a rhinoceros. At night, under the blazing southern stars, light classical music is played beneath the trees. Magical.
Prices are likewise remarkable. Chicken breast stuffed with sundried tomato, basil, brie and tarragon sauce, served on rice with stir-fried vegetables, costs $32. A fillet of fish with chips and side salad big enough to feed a hippo is $30.
At virtually every winery, you can buy a generous platter piled with beef, rye bread, pickles, mustards, ham, cheeses, smoked chicken, farmhouse citrus mayonnaise, and roasted vegetables or salad. This will cost you about $25.
The Dutch landed under Table Mountain in 1652 and soon began planting grapes. In 1685, religious mania in France saw Huguenots fleeing from slaughter. They arrived at the Cape sanctuary and farmed in nearby new settlements - Stellenbosch, Franschoek (French Corner) and Paarl, so-called because of a huge smooth rock that gleamed like a pearl after the rains.