The scent of lemongrass alone can make mouths water.
So visiting its namesake restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong seemed the perfect way to jolt a jaded palate.
Judging by the shoe-horned in crowd at Thai Lemongrass, we were not the only ones after a spicy tonic. No surprises then that our first order was the classic tom yam koong ma-pra ow ($65). Created for those with cast-iron stomachs, this hot, spicy soup often has diners sucking in air to cool burning lips. Unfortunately ours - containing cherry tomatoes, mushrooms and coconut meat - was milder than we would have liked. And it was disappointingly free of the usual tangle of stalks and leaves, which impart a fuller flavour.
Noticing that the menu was organised geographically, we ordered three other dishes according to region. The yam mamuang ($75) from Thailand's central plains was a green mango salad with cashews and dried squid. Treacly sweet, the fried squid shavings and coconut strips toned down the sugar level and added an unusual texture.
The north's pau pia j ($68) was next. Four vegetarian spring rolls stuffed with carrots, mushrooms and spring noodles, we ate them quickly, their contents never once spilling out of the fresh, crispy casing. From the south we ordered keang kiew wan pla hima ($105). The dish, which consisted of black cod and oyster mushrooms flooded in green curry, allowed us to enjoy the spice without the singe. Coconut meat was again a welcome addition.
Ordering only that one main course ensured enough room for two desserts. From a list heavy with bird's nest and coconut milk, we selected the drink-like coconut grass jelly ($55) and kluay buad chee ($60), a warming dish containing banana and taro. Both were delicious.