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Green Cottage Vietnamese Restaurant

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SCMP Reporter

There is no shortage of avenues for Vietnamese food in the city, but nailing down a decent one can take some doing. The foodies and fashionistas alike have caught on to the fact that Vietnamese can be light, tasty and healthy, and the restaurants at the high end of the scale are doing a brisk trade.

But, by and large, the newcomers have flattered to deceive - dishing up either Chinese versions of Vietnamese specialities or pricey portions so tiny they border on the scandalous.

These dilettantes would do well to pay a visit to this family-run Causeway Bay establishment, which stands as one of the local pioneers of home-style Vietnamese cooking.

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Constant queues for lunch and dinner are the first hint that something special is going on inside. It outgrew its original space, directly opposite, a few years back (although I do miss the antiquated pulley system that once flew orders across diners' heads from the front of the old shop to the kitchen).

These days, the strip-lit interior is just as business-like and the staff are still as rushed as ever, but remain efficient and good-natured hosts. If you can cope with zero elbow room, tiny black-top stools and plastic utensils, you'll never look back.

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It has built its reputation on fresh and delicate dishes at rock-bottom prices and the noodle soup - of which there are 30-odd combinations (from $25 to $35) - is the favourite. However, for me it's the snacks and recommendations that are the real triumphs.

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