The curfew meant tourists would be stuck for another day at their hotels. 'This has certainly put Nepal on the world map,' mused Mr van Kan. But he knows that may well persuade tourists to head to other destinations. Tourism in the remote kingdom faces total collapse.

If there's one small crumb of comfort to come out of the assassinations and the violent aftermath which have rocked this nation, it is that the shootings took place in the low season.

Nepal now has only a few weeks to find a solution to its political turmoil, and convince the world that it is safe to walk Kathmandu's narrow streets again and trek its majestic mountains. The trekking season begins at the end of August, after the monsoon. This is when hundreds of thousands of tourists usually flock to Kathmandu. But the prospects look grim.

Nepalis are not happy with the way the country is being governed. They had hoped that the late King Birendra would bring political harmony. But now they are worried at the intentions of his brother, the newly crowned King Gyanendra, who is known to oppose the present system of government. And they are angry that his son, Paras - who has a reputation for being a playboy - is the new crown prince.

Nepalis want to know the real reason for last Friday's palace massacre which has brought their country to such a political and social knife-edge.

Rumours are rife and this does little to foster confidence from inside or outside the country. Gossip going around yesterday said Kathmandu's water supplies had been poisoned. It is false, but a Japanese hotel guest was hysterical in the Hyatt's lobby because she had brushed her teeth using tap water. Staff managed to calm her and got her to the airport so she could fly out before the curfew.

Mr van Kan has seen many disturbing events since arriving in Kathmandu three years ago to oversee training and the development of the Hyatt Regency, which opened last August.

There was the Indian Airlines hijack; hotels (not the Hyatt) shut down by strikes; riots last December after an Indian film star was said to have insulted the Nepalese people. And of course there is the Maoist insurgency in the far west of the country.

Van Kan says he believes Nepal has great potential for tourism. But he doesn't know what the solution is. His worst fears may be realised when the investigators go public later this week. Meanwhile, many tourists who are still trapped here and hope tomorrow they will be able to get out, myself included.

Mike Currie is Travel Editor of the South China Morning Post