From the outside, Suikenkan looks like a typical Japanese restaurant, but the mix-and-match interior shows evidence of when it attempted to be a lot more. The menu again reminds you of the failed attempt, with items like fettuccine alfredo crossed out - along with many other dishes. The fish eggs fried rice ($58) was available though. The little eggs gave the rice nice colour but not really much flavour. Maybe our taste buds were too confused after the cold bean curd ($50). The vinegar saba came nicely presented and the fish's texture was rich but refreshing when eaten with minced ginger. We passed on the sushi platter and didn't think sashimi would be a good idea, opting instead for a sea urchin hand roll ($50) and eel and cucumber rolls ($40 for six). The sea urchin was smooth and fresh while the eel fell out of its wrapping before we could get to it. For the main course we again chose the eel ($95) from the selection of grilled dishes. It appeared at the table in a matter of seconds, making us rather suspicious. It turned out to be so fishy that we could still taste it half-way home. Service was attentive (there was only one other party in the restaurant) and generally good. But the time it took for our last order - California rolls ($60 for six) - to come, you'd have thought they had to fly them in from the Sunshine State. All the desserts were crossed off the menu. Dinner for three with green tea and service charge came to $482. Shop D, Kingstown Mansion, 313-323 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2573 1308. Open: Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight; public holidays dinner only. $$
