Cova is an odd place in that while attempting to be a cosy and upmarket Italian restaurant, it can't escape from the fact that it is located at the bottom of a shopping mall. However, once you get over that, it is a lovely place to eat. Guests are greeted by a low-hanging chandelier, friendly staff and piped-in classical music. The decor is upmarket and opulent and, despite some strong lighting, it tries to be intimate.
The menu is heavy on fish dishes, from the selection of starters to the pastas and mains. The chef's recommendation was a 'live' whole turbot at $468 for two. There was also a special menu devoted to lobster.
For starters we went for a lobster salad ($168) and a roast mushroom salad ($108). The lobster was beautifully served, but lacked flavour and was a little rubbery. However, the mushrooms, smothered in garlic and mixed herbs, were delicious.
While waiting for the main courses, we sipped on a fine chardonnay ($230). Indeed, the wine menu alone is worth going for. It stocks a comprehensive selection of Italian wines and has all the labels in the menu for effect. This should tempt you away from bringing your own but, if you do, be prepared to pay $200 corkage for red and white wines and $300 for champagne.
The main courses were fantastic. The lobster risotto ($258) was full of rich flavours which complemented the meat beautifully. The New Zealand rack of lamb ($218) was to die for, with the beautifully cooked flesh falling off the bone. The three pieces came on a bed of spinach and new potatoes in a delicious honey sauce.
For dessert we had fresh strawberries in syrup and a white chocolate ice-cream cake. Both were delicious and we washed them down with vin santo and almond biscuits. The bill for two came to $1,328. Though expensive, the food was great - it was just a little surprising to walk out of the place and into the bright lights of the Lee Garden Plaza.