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SCMP Reporter

FOR THE MOST part, the late Philippine strongman Ferdinand Marcos is not remembered with a great deal of affection. The former lawyer, who ruled the Philippines with an iron hand from 1966 to 1986, is most known for plundering billions of dollars from his impoverished country.

His corrupt rule, however, left a few entries in the positive side of the ledger. One of them is Fort Ilocandia Resort Hotel near Laoag City in Marcos' home province of Ilocos Norte.

Marcos had the sprawling brick building constructed in 1981 to provide a stunning backdrop for his daughter Imee's wedding to a scion of the wealthy Manotoc family which owns a good portion of land in Manila.

His wife Imelda is said to have had it designed as an exact replica of a building that she had fallen in love with in Spain.

When Marcos was deposed and fled into exile in Hawaii in 1986, the hotel was taken over by a state committee that was in charge of retrieving the looted billions.

The state proved to be a poor inn-keeper and the two-storey hotel fell into disrepair. One dusty and musty wing was closed. Then in 1999, the hotel was bought by William Gatchalian, the Chinese-Filipino plastics king of the republic, in a deal that has been linked to former president Joseph Estrada.

Gatchalian did not keep it long. In September last year it was taken over by a group of Hong Kong businessmen behind Philippine Travel and Amusement, led by Jack Lum and Albert Law.

They have already made great strides towards their goal of creating a convenient getaway resort for stressed-out city dwellers from China and the region. Fort Ilocandia now offers a convenient and fresh alternative from a weekend break in Macau or a longer stay in Phuket. Direct, thrice-weekly charter flights have been set up to Laoag from Hong Kong and Taipei to bring a steady flow of guests. The 80-minute flight from Hong Kong uses an Airbus from Philippine Airlines.

'Our owners are taking it very seriously, they love the property,' says resident manager Franz Weber.

So are the guests as can be judged by the average 78 per cent occupancy rate. There are now 500 staff to serve them, up from 200 before the Hong Kong group took over.

Many of the 287 rooms have been refurbished with light airy decorations to take them up to four-star standards.

The hotel's grounds of 77 hectares make it one of the largest in Asia, says Weber. It is easy to work up a healthy appetite just walking to breakfast from a room in the rear wing.

Breakfast comes in the Garden Coffee Shop which also features a generous buffet lunch and dinner for 350 pesos (HK$52.50). Diners are serenaded by an acoustic three-piece band. Two restaurants upstairs cater to aficionados of Chinese, Japanese or Korean fare.

Opposite the Chinese restaurant is a casino with slot machines and card tables.

Transport to downtown Laoag is not always easy to come by but night owls can slake their thirst at the resort. Two open-air bars jut into the palm-etched beach, great for watching the setting sun descending into the South China Sea, while out front is the Coco Lobster bar featuring a live band.

Back inside the hotel is a small disco which stays open until the wee hours, even if there are no patrons. During the day there are plenty of options. There's the beach and an impressive pool area, ideal for sun worshippers, and a sauna. The resort offers horse riding, an 18-hole golf course and ATVs and dune buggies.

Day trippers can take in the historic Spanish-influenced town of Vigan, frolic on the white sand beach of Pagodpud or see the embalmed body of the dictator in a mausoleum in his hometown of Batac.

The Marcos family is still popular in Ilocos Norte province where son Bongbong stood unopposed as governor in May's election and Imee was the sole candidate for congress.

Since Ferdinand fell from power, the Marcos family has had its share of problems.

But their legacy of Fort Ilocandia is a place where you can forget some of yours.

Flights leave Hong Kong for Laoag on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday at 7.40pm and return the same days at 5.15pm. A three-day, two-night stay from Friday to Sunday is $2,199 (twin share) including flights, hotel, transfers and breakfast. Single room supplement is $450. Add two rounds of golf with a caddie and the twin-share fare is $2,699 each. Ring Hong Cheung Travel on 2838 8080 for more details.



What Marcos left behind