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Today's residents of Hong Kong live in modern high-rises - even in the less urbanised regions of the New Territories.

In the past, however, New Territories residents usually lived in walled villages. Families with the same ancestors and the same surname often lived together in the same village.

The Sam Tung Uk Village in Tsuen Wan is one of Hong Kong's rare examples of a surviving historic walled village.

With its rows of houses along two sides and the rear, the symmetrical layout of the village resembles a chessboard.

The village's history can be traced to more than 200 years ago.

In the 18th Century, members of a Chan clan moved from Longchuan county of Guangdong Province to Hong Kong and settled in Lo Uk Cheung of Tsin Wan (present-day Tsuen Wan). The Chans constructed seawalls and reclaimed land along the shore in order to plant their crops.

As the family flourished, clan leader Chan Yam-shing wanted to build a village. The site of Sam Tung Uk caught his attention by virtue of its fung shui ; the site was considered a good locality with prosperous features.

Unfortunately, the landlord was reluctant to part with it. It was only after the death of Chan Yam-shing that the site was acquired by his four sons, and a walled village was constructed.

It faced Kap Shui Mun, overlooking the sea, and was sheltered at the back by a hill, known as the Lion Land. On an auspicious date in 1786 (the 51st year of Qianlong of the Qing dynasty), the clan moved in.

The village was known as Sam Tung Uk (three-beam-dwelling) because three roofed halls were built on its central axis, and the main supporting roof beam of each hall was called 'tung'.

It was constructed on the traditional Chinese architectural principle of symmetry. Its ancestral hall and two other common halls are situated on the central axis with village houses on both sides.

The three halls were common places for villagers.

Carts and palanquins were placed in the front hall, while the middle hall was used for social gatherings or important activities such as celebrations, wedding banquets and clan activities.

The ancestral hall - with its altar - occupied the innermost position on the axis, facing the front hall and the main entrance.

A dong chung  (central screen) was installed in front of the doorway to the highest hall because evil spirits were unable to turn corners, and couldn't get around the barrier. The screen could be opened only during important activities.

On either side of the front hall was a storage house where food grain and farming implements were kept.

Behind them were the four houses belonging to the four sons of Chan Yam-shing - one on each side of the ancestral hall and the middle hall.

When the population of the village increased, more houses were added to the original structure, while still maintaining the rectangular form.

The villagers were engaged mainly in farming. Apart from paddy farming, pineapple, sweet potato and other agricultural produce was cultivated.

The crops were used mainly for food, and the surplus was taken for sale in the 'old street' (now Tak Wah Street), a central market in Tsuen Wan. Pigs were also raised in sties nearby.

Since the 1960s, Tsuen Wan - the first major satellite town developed by the Government - has gradually developed into an industrial area with a large and growing population. Much of the farmland has been converted to industrial use, and a number of the villagers abandoned farming and became factory workers.

Land originally belonging to the Chans was sold from time to time, and in 1978, farmland surrounding Sam Tung Uk was sold before the villagers moved to modern homes.

In 1980, Sam Tung Uk residents gradually moved out of the old village under Government arrangements and resettled in a newly constructed Sam Tung Uk Village at Cheung Shan.

A new ancestral hall of the Chan clan was constructed in 1986, but the renovated village is no longer a traditional walled village.

Fortunately, by virtue of its great age and unique architectural style, the old village was declared an historical monument in 1981.

Following extensive restoration it was opened to the public in 1987 as a museum.

The four Chinese characters signifying 'Chan's Family Ancestral Hall' are visible on the granite lintel above the door.

Ceramic pots on each side of the front door held water for drinking and for extinguishing fire.

Several colourful lanterns adorned with traditional proverbs or famous Chinese poems hang in the halls.

Various agricultural implements and everyday objects offer a glimpse into Hakka village life of the past.

The 2,000-square-metre Sam Tung Uk Museum is open to the public every day except Tuesday. In 1990 the restoration was awarded the Pacific Heritage Award of the Pacific Asia Tourist Association.

For more information, log on and go to www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk.

Lilian is a summer intern from

the Chinese University of Hong Kong.

Graphic: oldhkglo



Historic village brings past to life