Jaspas
I knew there was an Australian connection before I stepped inside Jaspas. The painted Fosters logo on its huge multicoloured facade gave the game away.
Once inside, however, this restaurant, which has a sister branch in Sai Kung, exuded positivity, with warm, modern decor and excellent service.
If patrons couldn't decipher the chef's style from the eclectic range on offer, the menu brought the message home: 'Fusion'. Although alarm bells rang from fear of being subjected to nonsensical nouvelle experimentation, a closer look indicated we may have found fusion with substance.
The eggplant rolls ($65) - perfectly grilled eggplant slices wrapped around piquant goat's cheese and drizzled with parsley pesto - started the meal in style. A warning about the generous serving of the fresh, crispy lobster nachos ($95) would have been appreciated as it was big enough for two.
My surf 'n' turf ($140) was an inspired choice. A stack of wasabi mashed potato and crispy vegetables was topped with an Australian tenderloin, cooked to a perfect medium as requested, and surrounded by four Moreton Bay bug half-tails. The bugs - in this case from Thailand because the Australian season was over - peeled straight out of their shells, indicating freshness.
Then came a dish which looked - but didn't turn out to be - too big to finish: the Aussie T-bone steak ($135). Accompanied with the same vegetables and a pepper sauce, it was a meat-lover's ambrosia.
Homemade pavlova ($45) topped with fresh strawberries, kiwi fruit and cantaloupe was a diamond dessert.
Before waddling out from overeating, we paid the bill of $1,029 for two, which included four glasses of wine ($70 each), two coffees ($30 each) and two mineral waters ($35), and a 10 per cent service charge.
28-30 Staunton Street, Central. Tel: 2869 0733. Open: 7am-11pm. $$$$
