Ichikawa Rating: lllll Unit 234, Level 2, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway Tel: 2918 9189 Open: noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm LIKE THE MALL that it's in, Ichikawa has something for every taste and budget. The menu offers expensive Kobe beef dishes that might tempt shoppers who can afford Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, and for the Bossini and U2 brigade there are well-priced set dinners. The smell from the prominently displayed teppanyaki grill hits diners immediately on entering the crowded restaurant but, fortunately, the waitress led us away from the fumes to a small table at the back. Unlike many Japanese restaurants, Ichikawa isn't a place of calming serenity - that Japanese aesthetic does not come through in either the decor or atmosphere. The waitress appeared with one copy each of three different menus. One had set dinners, which most of the other diners seemed to favour. The two other menus were puzzling because both listed a la carte dishes. Besides teppanyaki, they also offered extensive lists of sushi and sashimi, cold salads and appetisers, and tempura. It took quite a while to select our dishes from the two a la carte menus, but in the end we decided on the unusual-sounding special caviar salad with cheese sauce ($60), sweet potato tempura ($60), grilled salmon head (which was $60 on one menu and $110 on the other - we chose the $60 dish), grilled oysters ($80), grilled eggplant with miso ($40), sea urchin sushi ($80) and soft-shell crab rolls ($80). The food was a long time in coming, but then it came all at once. The caviar salad wasn't the expected salmon or flying fish roe, but was made of crab eggs that had been pressed into a block and then cut into tiny cubes. Equally small cubes of cheese were added, and a creamy but slightly spicy sauce mixed in. It was both unusual and refreshing. Both sushi dishes were excellent, especially the generous and reasonably priced soft-shell crab roll, which was beautifully rolled with thinly sliced avocado around the rice and filling, then topped with a small dab of mayonnaise and flying fish roe. Also delicious were the grilled oysters, sprinkled with minced onion and bacon. The grilled salmon head, which had been cut into manageable pieces, was nicely charred, which gave the rich, fatty meat a smoky flavour. The sweet potato tempura was dreadful, tasting only of starch and oily batter. The grilled eggplant had been cooked so long it was mushy, and was covered in an overwhelmingly thick layer of miso. The service was mediocre, with far too many support staff serving the dishes and pouring tea, and not enough taking the orders. Dinner for two was $548. A drinks list of sakes, wines and expensive brandies is available.