Zeffirino 31/F Regal Hongkong Hotel, 88 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay. Tel: 2837 1779 Open: noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm The May opening of Zeffirino at the Regal Hongkong Hotel promised to bring Italian glamour to Causeway Bay. And indeed, the hotel's 31st-floor restaurant is elegant, with high ceilings, comfortable chairs, a great view and superb service. The Hong Kong Zeffirino is the first branch in Asia of the original in Genoa. Pictures of some of the restaurant's more famous guests in Italy and Hong Kong line the entrance, and several dishes are named after celebrities. The wine list is extensive, concentrating mostly on Italian wines, although those who prefer French won't be disappointed (as long as they have deep pockets). There are 14 wines by the glass and from this selection we chose a fruity Santa Christina Antinori 1999 ($55 per glass) to sip while we read the menus. The white truffle menu sounded tempting - and expensive - but we decided to share dishes from the regular menu. My guest chose a mixed salad ($55) and lasagnette al pesto (lasagne pasta with typical Genovese pesto sauce, $128), while I selected pansotti con salsa noci (tortelloni filled with spinach and ricotta cheese in walnut sauce, $145) and mixed seafood soup with lobster served with croutons ($268) for the main course. The salad, from the list of side dishes, was a generous serving (another mixed salad - with mushrooms and walnuts in Zeffirino dressing - is listed under antipasti and costs $98) and came with a colourful mix of fresh leaves. The tortelloni was delicious, with the creamy, slightly grainy walnut sauce complementing the ricotta and spinach filling. It's a good thing we shared the seafood soup - although delicious, the large portion was too rich for one light eater to finish. The broth was well-flavoured with the mixture of seafood (lobster, clams, mussels) that studded the soup, and not too salty. We were disappointed with the lasagnette, but that was really our fault. We thought we would be served a layered, baked lasagne instead of a classic Genoan dish of lasagne sheets with pesto. But it seemed plain and the pasta sheets were too thick. For dessert, we tried tiramisu ($88) and amaretto parfait with chocolate sauce ($78). The tiramisu was too thick and creamy and needed more biscuit or sponge cake to lighten it (more alcohol would have been welcome as well). The lighter amaretto parfait (or semi-freddo, meaning half-frozen) was a great finish to the meal, well-flavoured with amaretto and crunchy with what we suspected were crushed amaretti biscuits folded into the parfait. A meal for two, with two glasses of wine, came to $959.20.