The sweet, acrid smell of roasting chestnuts is a sure sign that cooler weather has come to Hong Kong. If they are available when the occasion arises, I use roasted chestnuts in all my savoury preparations - that smoky flavour the charcoal gives these nuts adds another dimension to the dish.
Preparing fresh chestnuts can be troublesome because it's difficult to separate the kernels from their hard outer shells. You have to cut a slit in the chestnuts then cook them so the shell comes off more easily. Fortunately, many vendors sell raw chestnuts with their husks removed, so all you have to do is boil them until they are tender and peel off their papery skins. Remove just a few at a time - the skins pull away much easier when the nuts are hot.
Chestnut stuffing is a classic accompaniment to turkey, but the nuts are also delicious as a side dish. Prepare the chestnuts as described (or use roasted chestnuts). Cook diced bacon until it is crisp, then drain off the fat and remove the bacon from the pan. Slice celery diagonally and saute in the bacon fat, add cooked chestnuts and a little chicken broth and a sprinkling of sugar, then cover and simmer until the broth is absorbed. Put the bacon back in the pan, then season with salt and lots of fresh black pepper. A little cayenne pepper also goes well with it.
