Although many people think of cranberries as the awful jellied sauce that retains the shape of the can and sits, untouched, by the Christmas turkey, a real cranberry sauce, made from fresh or frozen fruit, is entirely different. This is one of the few varieties of berry that can be frozen without any change to its quality or texture. For cranberry sauce, start cooking the berries with a little water - enough to prevent them from sticking to the pan. When the berries give off liquid and start to burst from their skins, add granulated sugar to taste, fresh orange juice, a little fresh lemon juice, and the finely grated zest of an orange. Stir over low heat until they are cooked. The texture of the finished sauce should be chunky, but if it's too thick, stir in more orange juice. It will thicken as it cools. Cranberries make a refreshing sorbet with a gorgeous ruby colour; it is delicious as an intermezzo sorbet to cleanse the palate at a formal dinner party, or in bigger portions for dessert. Cook three cups of cranberries with 21/2 cups of water and 11/2 cups of granulated sugar. Simmer until the berries are soft. Puree, then strain through a fine sieve and cool completely, then chill. Stir in fresh lemon juice to taste (the flavour should be sharp). Process in an ice-cream freezer. If you don't have one, pour the mixture into a metal tray in the freezer. When the mixture starts to freeze, stir with a wire whisk to break up the ice crystals. Repeat this several times until the mixture is completely frozen. The texture will be rougher - more like a granite - than a sorbet. Japanese snack shop Aji Ichiban used to carry delicious dried cranberries, but it has changed suppliers and the kind it sells now are not as good. If you do find dried cranberries of quality, substitute them for raisins in scones (lemon scones with cranberries is a great combination) and cookies.